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Since moving to the Pacific Northwest, my partner and I have tried to stay active by doing frequent day hikes in the many local parks and recreational areas.  When possible, we also take our 2 dogs, Snickers and Jasper along for the ride.  Both dogs love to get out and about and really seem to enjoy the hike as much as we do.

Snickers, our long hair dachshund, is very finicky when it comes to getting wet or dirty and will go out of his way to avoid any standing water or mud puddles.  Jasper, our Min Pin, will go full steam ahead and damn the puddles, cliffs or any lake that may be in his path.  He loves to stop at every tree, rock, leaf or branch and smell and or do his business.  He is in constant motion which is exactly what got him in trouble one beautiful day last winter.

We had all decided to go hiking up near Bonneville Dam in Southern Washington.  The Tamanous Trail is a 5.8 mile hike that originates at the Bonneville Trail head and ends at a Gillette Lake.  This trail is a easy hike with only a 648 foot elevation.  At the end of the trail, just as you crest the hill, you are presented with an incredible view of the lake.    

This was Jasper’s first hike with us since adopting him from one of Portland’s local rescue shelters.  Snickers was an old pro by now and started out at his normal leisurely but cautionary pace.  Jasper on the other hand took off like a bat out of you know where.  He had to smell and pee and bark and just plain run havoc all over the place.  We had put him on a 20 foot lead and he made use of every inch of that lead.  In short, he was in doggy heaven. 

Two hours into our hike we crossed an old logging road and climbed a short hill.  At the top of the hill was the overlook to the lake.  It was the middle of January and about 20 degrees with a strong wind coming off the Gorge.  This meant that we had the place to ourselves since there were no other crazy people out hiking that day. 

From the top of the hill, it is a steady downhill trek to the lake.  With Jasper leading the way, we were there in just a few minutes.   The lake is in a small canyon which blocked most of the wind and gave the lake a mirror like surface.  We were all quite taken by the beauty of the lake and we standing there just admiring the view when Jasper bolted and at full speed, jumped into the lake.  Luckily, he still had his lead on and we were able to retrieve him in short order.  However, the look on his face was priceless.  That water had to be about 30 degrees and I can only imagine the shock of hitting that water from a dead run.

We dried him off as best we could and tried to get him warm, but he just shivered and shivered.  Greg ended up putting Jasper in his coat and carrying him the rest of the hike.  But I think Jasper was quite content in being carried and of course, he had to have his head out all the time so he could see all around.

Aside from Jasper’s unexpected mid-winter swim, I think he had a great first hike.  We have been on numerous hikes since then and he is still gets very excited about going.  But there is one thing we have noticed.  Jasper is no longer quite so anxious to go swimming.

Tags: Hiking, Jasper, Personal Adventure

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In the article, How To Dress for Cold Weather Adventures, I addressed how to dress for cold weather activities.  In this article, I will discuses what happens when you don’t follow my advice.

Hypothermia, sometimes referred simply as “exposure”, is a lowering of the body’s core temperature caused by over-exposure to cool or cold air or water.  Most people know that extremely cold weather can cause problems and therefore most hypothermia cases are not seen during the winter months.  Most cases of hypothermia occur during the spring, summer and fall because people do not recognize that it does not take sub-zero conditions to cause hypothermia.

There are three major factors that cause hypothermia: cold, water, and wind.  In a cold environment, the body must work harder to regulate heat.  Body heat is lost in one of or the combination of three ways; convection, conduction and evaporation.  Contact with cold air, water, snow, ground or wet clothing will cause heat loss due to conduction.  Submersion in water will cause heat lost due to conduction and convection. While loss of body heat by evaporation is a major contributor as well.  Wet skin or clothing can cool the body quickly through evaporation, especially if it is windy and or cold.  Wind, in the absence of moisture will cause heat loss due to convection, and will accelerate heat loss due to evaporation.

While the basic effects of air or water induced hypothermia are similar, the speed of which hypothermia set in differs.  A person immersed in moderately cold water can have a drop of core temperature more quickly that a person exposed to cold ambient temperatures and wind.  50 degree water can drain a body’s heat quickly, often lowering the core temperature to less than 90 degrees in the first 15 min.  Shivering sets in quickly in an attempt to increase body temperature.  However, as the body continues to lose heat, the person will soon become unconscious and if the person is not wearing a proper flotation device, drowning is a common outcome. With air or wind induced hypothermia, depending on air temperature and wind speed, the symptoms may not be so apparent.  During the primary stage of hyperthermia, the victim may not acknowledge that there is a problem. Progression begins with a natural sense of cold accompanied by shivering.  A feeling of numbness then occurs while shivering increases to where it’s soon uncontrollable. Speech is garbled or incoherent, and the thought process slows. Body movements are erratic, and uncovered skin swells and appears blue. Unconsciousness follows and death can occur if the cooling is allowed to continue.  

The treatment for hypothermia is the same regardless of the cause.  It requires that the body core temperature be raised to a normal level.  Some recommended suggestions include:

• Removing wet or damp clothing
• Placed into a sleeping bag along with someone who is not suffering from the same symptoms
• Huddling near a fire or some other heat source.  Care must be taken here because, if frost bite has set in, the victim may not be able to feel the heat from the fire and a bad burn may result
• If available, place warm containers in the arm pits and groin of the victim.  Place a dry hat and socks on the victim if available.
• DO NOT GIVE ALCOHOL
• If the condition is so severe that it appears that the victim is not breathing, start CRP and maintain a proper airway.  Do not stop the CRP.  If possible, have someone else continue the warming attempts while CPR is in progress.  Most often, a person who is in severe hypothermia will respond to CRP once the body core temperature raises. 
• If the victim stops shivering but appears to still be hypothermic, he may be experiencing the onset of shock.  The treatment is the same as for hyporthermia except raising the legs above the heart is a good first step. 
• Seek medical attention as soon as possible.

  To prevent hypothermia, simply follow this advice:

• Dress properly for current and possible conditions. Have at least one wool garment for the upper and lower parts of your body. Wool is the only material with any insulating value when wet. Carry or wear a windproof, waterproof garment. Always have a wool hat and wool mittens. Have extra clothing available especially mittens and hats. A large proportion of body heat is lost through the head. Wear suitable boots, insulated if necessary; wear wool socks, and always carry extra wool socks. Avoid getting overheated and perspiring; this cools you down – fast. Wear layers and remove clothing as necessary. Better having extra than too little. Dress sensibly and expect the worst
• Sit out bad weather. Better waiting than be overtaken by a blizzard or thunderstorm. Do not push on through the night. Make camp early and rest thoroughly. You can continue tomorrow with a much greater safety margin.  Do not get exhausted. Exhaustion promotes heat loss, and thus hypothermia. Besides, if your exhausted, you are probably drenched
• Do not get in over your head. If your experience is limited to day hikes on moderate trails, do not try to go out and tackle Mt. Washington in February. Be smart. Learn to use a map and compass. Learn fire starting techniques. Learn first-aid. Be calm. Be prepared
• Be prepared for sudden weather changes especially at elevations
• Lastly, learn about hypothermia. Know the causes, warning signs, and treatment. Learn how not to get cold.

Tags: Camping, Clothing, Hiking, Hyperthermia, Jasper Mountain Outfitters, JMOutfitters, Outdoor Supply, Supplies

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This time of year, outdoor activities can be more of a challenge then a recreational event. In my area of the country (Pacific Northwest) October through January is our normal wet season. It rains pretty much all the time and when it is not raining it is cold and damp. To most people, going outdoors in this kind of environment is just plain crazy. But to those of us who enjoy the great outdoors, this time of year can offer a real chance to get away from all the crowds and tourists that usually take all the available camping spots during the summer months. However, weather like this can and usually does present some definite problems. The cold temperatures and all the rain can present dangerous conditions for the adventurist that is not prepared. Staying dry and warm is the key to having a fun and relaxing cold weather outdoor experience.

Below are some tips to keep in mind when venturing out during the cooler months.

Your activity level will determine what kind of clothing you should wear while venturing into the cold weather. The key is to wear multiple layers of clothes so that you can remove or add clothing as the environment and your activity level changes. Your clothing should be designed to keep your body heat at a stable level and equal out heat loss and heat gain. You should be able to be comfortable whether you’re are moving around or sitting still.

In cold, wet weather, cotton is not your friend. Cotton holds moisture, whether it be from the wet environment or from sweating. As we all know, persistent moisture can not only cause things like blisters and skin irritation, but can cause loss of body heat as well. Wet clothing is the number one cause of hypothermia in cold weather activities. Every effort must be taken to keep your clothing dry while in cold weather conditions.

Like I said before, layering is the key to determining what kind of clothing you should wear. Basically, you should have 3 layers of clothes with each providing a different purpose.

The first layer should employ clothing that will remove moisture away from your skin. This will prevent heat loss due to moisture build up. Clothing comprising polypropylene or some other kind of synthetic is best suited for this purpose.

The second layer is the insulation layer. This should be clothing that will keep the heat in and the cold out. This is best material suited for this is fleece. It is light and warm, but does not shed water readily so the last layer of clothing is very important.

The third layer is for keeping the water and wind out. It should comprise of water proof materials such as Gore-Tex. This material is light weight, very wind and water resistant and warm. And for all you who are designer conscious, it comes in many different styles and colors as well.

Staying dry and warm can mean the difference in having a great time while hiking or camping and being found by a rescue party 2 weeks after setting out. If you follow the advice above, not only will you have a great time in your outdoor activity, but you will look like you are having a great time as well.

Tags: Camping, Clothing, Gore-Tex, Hiking, JMOutfitters, Outdoor Supply, Supplies

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The Inova T4 is solid metal, very bright, and has a good beam pattern with no irregularities. The threads on the lens and battery cover are well machined—the whole thing just feels like a quality instrument.

The Inova T4 is rechargeable, and a cradle is included, along with an AC adapter and a power source for your car. The best thing is it’s a smart charging system—you are meant to leave the light in the cradle as much as you want so that it stays topped off. (It’s a lithium-ion battery so there is no “memory effect” to worry about either.)

Another important point is that the power is regulated, so that the beam never dims. It runs at full brightness until the battery is too weak, and then it shuts off. That’s important to protect the battery. Lithium rechargeables can be damaged by running them totally flat, which the T4 makes impossible. So, if you are the kind of person who would consider spending a little more on a flashlight—a flashlight that’ll last until the end of days—the Inova T4 should be on your list of candidates.

This and other great products can be found at Jasper Mountain Outfitters.

Tags: Camping, Flashlights, Hiking, Inova T4, Lights, Power Supply

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Binoculars

 Binoculars (also known as Field glasses) are optical devices that contain dual mirror-symmetrical telescopes mounted together in order for the user to use both eyes when viewing distant objects. Binocular lenses are aligned to point accurately in the same direction, many binoculars are designed to be held by two hands but there are much larger models as well. Binoculars give the user a three dimensional view; the two views contain a slightly different viewpoint to each of the viewer’s eye, thus producing a merged view with depth perception. there are two types of binoculars that are used today; Roof Binoculars and Porro Binoculars. you will find many different sizes and styles of binoculars. The most important thing to look for in a set of binoculars is that; it should feel good in your hands and be able to get a clear/crisp image.

Types of Binoculars 

Roof Binoculars
Roof binoculars contain what is known as a roof prism, these binocular models are generally smaller in size than porro style binoculars and are typified by straight barrels. Roof prism models are lighter weight than porro prism binoculars yet maintain excellent image quality. Roof prisms usually have a more sleek design than parro prisms but have a reduced brightness compared to the parro. These binoculars must go through a more strict alignment of the optical elements which requires the elements to be a fixed style. This means that they normally do not need to be re-aligned.

Porro Binoculars
Porro binoculars contain what is known as a parro prism, these models are a more traditional style binocular. Porro prism binoculars are easily identified by the shape of the barrels, which have the objective lens offset from the ocular lens. Parro prisms produce a brighter image versus the roof prism, but the prisms may need to be re-aligned occasionally.

Binocular Sizes

Compact
Compact binoculars offer the advantages of being smaller and lighter. They are perfect for those who are generally on foot for long periods of time and need to trim weight from their load. They usually fit into pockets for easy accessibility and quick use. However, they offer limited light transmission and steadiness in the larger powers. Usually, objective lenses in these compacts are in the 20-30 mm range.

Mid Size
A Mid size binocular offers a good mix of light transmission and steadiness, but is also easy to handle and fairly lightweight is a mid size. These binoculars are great for all around use in most conditions. Objective sizes in mid size binoculars typically range from 30-40 mm. These days, many features of full size binoculars can be found in mid size binoculars, a plus when weight is critical.

Full Size
Full size binoculars are the best for gathering light because of their larger objective lenses, which are usually over 40 mm. They also offer broader fields of view and are easier to steady. The trade off is often in the size and weight. Larger and heavier, they are ideal for those who don’t mind carrying a few extra ounces to get a better view.

Power and Viewing

Power and Objective Size, Zoom Options
Optics are described by two numbers separated by an “X.” The first number is the magnification (8X) or how many times larger an object will appear when viewed through the optic. An 8X, or 8 power optic will make an object appear eight times closer than the same object viewed with the naked eye. The last number is the diameter of the objective lens in millimeters (X40). The objective lens is the lens nearest the object being viewed. When choosing a binocular, magnification is critical. Lower magnification binoculars, 8X or less, allow for excellent light gathering, wider field of view and extremely steady images. Higher magnification binoculars, 10X or higher, bring objects much closer, but sacrifice some of the other features found in low magnification pairs.

Field of View (FOV)
When viewing through a binocular the visible width at a given distance is known as the “field of view.” Field of view may be expressed in feet at 1,000 yards, meters at 1,000 meters, or degree of angle. One degree of angle equals 52.5 feet field-of view at 1,000 yards. An optic with 6.5 degrees of angle can be calculated by multiplying 52.5 feet (6.5 x 52.5 = 340 feet at 1,000 yards). TIP: Higher magnification means closer images but less light transmission and smaller field of view.

Inside the Optic

Lens Construction
Another more recent innovation in binocular lenses is the attention to ocular lens configuration. The arrangement and surface shape can effect clarity and definition, especially at the edges of the image. Brunton Epoch™ binoculars use “hybrid aspheric lens construction,” a complex organization of lens surfaces that result in optimal image clarity over the entire image field and eliminate distortion found in standard aspheric lenses.

Coatings
To enhance light transmission through a binocular, manufacturers apply a microscopic film containing magnesium fluoride and other chemicals to the prism, lenses or both. This microscopic film diminishes the reflected or stray light inside a binocular allowing more light to be transmitted to the user’s eye. Generally, the more applications of this coating, the greater the reduction in glare and reflections resulting in a brighter crisper image. The least expensive process is known as a “coated” optic where only the prism is coated. When an optic is “fully coated,” all air-to-glass surfaces (lens and prisms) are coated once. The best coating available is “fully multi coated” where all air-to-glass surfaces are coated multiple times for the greatest amount of light transmission to the eye. TIP: More coatings mean brighter, crisper images in all light conditions. Exit Pupil & Eye Relief.

Exit pupil
The amount of light exiting the binocular and entering the eye is determined by the “exit pupil.” The exit pupil is calculated by dividing the diameter of the objective lens by the magnification. An 8×40 mm binocular has an exit pupil of 5 mm (40 mm ÷ 8 mm = 5 mm). If we were glassing for elk during the day, the pupil of a human eye would only open 2.5 mm, but increase to 5 mm at dusk to compensate for less available light. Binoculars with an exit pupil of 5 mm or higher maximize the amount of light entering the eye, thus increasing image brightness. An 8X24 mm binocular (3 mm exit pupil) will perform well under normal lighting conditions where a 7X42 mm binocular (6 mm exit pupil) provides enough light to see during twilight conditions and into the shadows of the forest canopy.

Eye Relief
In order for your binocular to produce a full image, the proper distance must be maintained from your eye to the ocular lens. This distance is known as “eye relief.” If you wear eyeglasses (or sunglasses), the distance is increased because your eyes are 10-15 mm behind a glass barrier. If this additional distance is not accounted for “tunnel vision” will occur. To allow eyeglass wearers to have a full image, a binocular must incorporate “long eye relief” which is a distance of 15 mm or more. Binoculars with long eye relief feature adjustable eyecups which move the binocular to the correct distance from the eye for eyeglass compatibility. Recent innovations such as “multi-step long eye relief” allow the user to twist-up the eyecups to the desired distance from the eye. Brunton Epoch™ Binoculars feature a patented “locking multi-step eye relief system” which allows users to lock the eye cups in their specific position to ensure quicker spotting with less set-up of the binocular. TIP: Eyeglass wearers should seek a binocular with a minimum eye relief of 18 mm.

Focus Mechanisms

Focus settings
Focus mechanisms are critical to the performance and enjoyment of your binocular. A good focus wheel set-up will give you a range of closefocus to infinity in just one full turn (360 degrees) of the focus wheel. Most binoculars have a linear focusing gear, which typically gives the user either a slow focus or fast focus. Slow focus is good for examining things at close range (less than 30 feet). Fast focus is better for long range viewing (30 ft to infinity). Brunton’s Variable Speed Focus™ allows the user a combination of fast and slow focus. Brunton has also set the bar for close focus. Typically, binoculars can not focus on objects closer than 5 ft away. The Epoch™ binoculars are able to focus at a mere 3 feet away, with precise focus adjustment, then transition out to infinity with a fast focusing gear. This innovative system has forever changed binocular performance standards.

Tags: Binoculars, Camping, Focus, Hiking, JMOutfitters, Optic, Outdoor Supply, Supplies

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Hydration Systems
Hydration systems are devices designed with the single purpose of getting necessary liquids to the user as quick and as convenient as possible. Initially, hydration systems were designed for bikers because of limited hand availability. These devices have been popularized in many other outdoor activities and are a necessity for many military operations. Having a hydration system is much more effective and convenient than carrying around water bottles. Having a hydration system on or in your pack keeps you more hydrated because by the time you go for a drink from a water bottle you are already showing signs of dehydration. Also, when empty, hydration systems take up little space and are very lightweight.

How Hydration Systems Work
Hydration systems consist of 3 main parts; the packaging, a polyurethane reservoir also known as the “bladder”, and the hose. The Bladder is usually an elongated, flexible, and removable water container that goes inside whatever pack fits your needs. These reservoirs range in size from 64 ounces (2 quarts) to 128 ounces (1 gallon). The hose is attached to the bladder and has some sort of bite valve at the end that allows the water to flow out by biting down on it. With the end of the tube just inches from your mouth the need for a water break becomes non-existent.

Choosing your Hydration System
Choosing the right hydration system is important. There are many different designs, styles, and sizes. You must also keep in mind the factors that contribute to its ease of use because nowadays hydration packs can be sport/activity specific. Such factors include how easy it is to clean or refill, and how you intend to carry and store It.

Cleaning
Cleanliness is one of the most important factors when it comes to any sort of reusable water device. When water sits idle for an extended period of time or the container is not cleaned properly after use it is more susceptible to bacteria which can increase the chances that the user gets sick. Most bladders are removable which makes them easier to clean and also allows for them to be used in almost any backpack. The size of the access hole for filling the container also affects how easy it is to clean the bladder. An opening roughly large enough for the users hand to fit inside is ideal for cleaning. Some manufacturers offer bladders that are dishwasher-safe and or easily replaceable after use. Many prefer a bladder that is transparent making it easier to check the cleanliness of the bladder. Some companies also make cleaning tablets that clean out water reservoirs and water bottles.

Be Practical, Size does Matter
Understanding what activities you will be using the hydration system for is very important. For instance, a bicyclist may prefer a smaller lightweight hydration pack for less wind resistance. For long distance trips with no other water source you might consider a larger bladder. The mountain biker’s pack will be slightly different from the road biker’s hydration pack, as well as those used for winter sports and running.

— Small
Small sized packs are very important if weight is an issue. For running and biking a larger pack could be a nuisance. When all you need is water, it is a good idea to keep the pack small and to the point. Smaller bladders can be a good idea especially if you have a water filter and local water supply.

— Medium
Medium sized hydration systems are very useful for short day hikes and other activities that can be achieved in short periods of time. Another good aspect of medium sized packs is they can store other necessities such as food/snacks and emergency equipment.

— Large
The larger Packs are typically designed for backpacking or trekking for multiple days. These packs are hydration system compatible but some do not come with the bladder and hose.

Water Filter Attachments
Some hydration systems have quick attachments for water filtration devices. These attachments make refilling anywhere an easy task. In some cases if you intend to carry your reservoir on the inside of the pack it can be very difficult to take off the pack, dig into the pouch, retrieve the reservoir, and fill it with water. Not only do you have to hold the bladder in a position that it will not collapse and spill but you need two hands typically to pump the water. With a special attachment that extends outside of the pack to the filter the task of refilling the hydration system mid-hike has become extremely simplified. This device is also a great idea because it allows for the hydration pack to remain inside of the pack where insulation is much better.

Insulation
Another feature that many hydration systems manufacturers stress is insulation. Many hydration packs are insulated and typically the bigger the pack the more insulated the hydration system can be. Some manufacturers have a special insulation liner that goes directly around the bladder so that it can be attached to the outside of a backpack for easy access and refilling. Hoses can also be insulated too and some hydration systems come with insulated hoses or they can be purchased separately. This is important because after each drink, water will remain in the hose. Since the hose is a much smaller area and is more exposed to the outside it will change towards the ambient temperature at a much faster rate. In other words, in extremely cold weather the insulation will protect the water from freezing and help keep the water from getting warm in the hot sun. Ice can typically also be put inside the bladder in order to keep the water colder for a longer period of time.

Tags: Camping, Hiking, Hydration, JMOutfitters, Outdoor Supply, Supplies

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Tags: Camping, Equipment, GPS, Hiking, JMOutfitters, Supplies

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Being the type of person who loves the outdoors, I love to get out and just go. I love to go places that few have been.  Withme there does not have to be a reason to just get away from the city with all of the congestion and rushing around and people who are living too fast to actually enjoy their lives.  With me, it’s all about taking some time to actually enjoy my life.

Quite a while ago I came across this “past time” called geocaching. I will admit that at first I thought the concept was silly.  However, now that I have done it a few times, I really see the fun in it.  What little child doesn’t grow up playing pirates? Who doesn’t relish matching wits with other ourdoor adventurists?   Welcome to the world of geocaching.

Geocaching is a popular outdoor adventure that is one of the fastest growing outdoor hobbies in the US.  Well that is, of course, just my opinion.  But, if it is not, then it should be.

So what is geocaching?  It is a world wide “treasure hunt” or hide & seek.  Basically, someone takes a plastic, waterproof container out into the woods somewhere and hides it.  Within that container is some simple little trinket or “Treasure” along with a log book for people to sign once they find my treasure.  And then, using my handy little Garmin Colorado, 400T GPS, I mark on a map the exact coordinates of my treasure. Then, once I get home, I log on to the geocaching website, and place the information about my treasure location there.

At that website, you can post the exact coordinates or a series of clues that will lead some one to that spot.  It all depends on how hard you wish to make it.   Just remember that you want to challenge the person trying to find it without making it impossible to find.  Sometimes people will make up some form of simple riddle that you would have to solve before you would know where to go.  These riddles can be quite complicated and require some research to find while other will make the riddle very simple to follow.

An example would look like the following:

Down by the river there is an old knotty tree that looks like a dog with two backwards knees. The dogs first leg will get you wet.  If you search the second or third then zero is what you get. The fourth is where to start so prepare to hike and don’t loose heart. Walk 50 paces due east from this twisted leg and find the stump hidden in the hedge.

This example, at first glance, makes no sense at all but given more information it would be fairly easy to decipher. If the author was to give a park name or specific river or even a location of the tree then this cache would be a fairly simple find.

Some people will get very creative with their clues so be prepared to think. If you are still having trouble figuring out the riddle there are usually hints located under them to help you figure them out. Sometimes they are written in code and you have to work to get the hint right. If you are STILL having issues with the hints there is a decipher button that will tell you what the hints are and you can figure out the clues from there.

So what items are placed in the cache? Well, it is important to remember that not everyone is honest so don’t place anything in a cache that you can not afford to lose.  The idea is to place something in the cache for people to find and then report back to you what it is that they found.  Another example is a “take something and leave something” policy.  Meaning that the once the original object is found, you then replace it with a new object for the next person to find. 

A third technique involves, “Travel bugs.”  These are small metal ID tags that are etched with a number and a picture of a bug. These travel bugs are meant for you to take and go to the website and tell where you found it. Then, when you find your next cache, you replace the bug in that cache for the following person to do the same thing. This way the bug travels from place to place (hence the name). 

Sometimes people will even place disposable cameras in the case for the treasure hunter to take a picture of himself.  Then, at some future date, the film is developed and the pictures are posted on the geocaching site.  The possibilities are endless and it is very fun to “match wits” with the hider of the case.

Geocaching is done easiest with a GPS unit.  Some units are programmable and will lead you to the exact location of the case.  However, don’t be fooled.  Even though you may know the exact location, it might not be easy to fine. Some will be hidden rather well and others will have elaborate coverings. They can be well hidden and will take patience and persistence to find.

Geocaching is fun, but can be very challenging at times.  It’s a great outdoor activity for all ages and can be a great opportunity for a family to spend some quality time together in the outdoors.  Just be very careful.  It can become very addicting.

Tags: Colorado 400T, Garmin, Geocaching, GPS, Hiking, JMOutfitters, Outdoor Supply

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One of the features of this blog will be a category for readers to post their most memorable personal outdoor experiences, information about favorite camping or fishing spots, and photos of your outdoor adventures.  If you have a article or photos you would like to post, please contact me and I will supply the information on how to do so.

My most memorable camping adventure took place when a group of my friends and I went to Stephen C. Foster State Park, in South Eastern Georgia on a 4 day canoe trip in the Okefenokee Swap. 

The Great Okefenokee Swamp is one of North America’s most unspoiled, fascinating and precious natural areas. It is the largest, intact and un-fragmented wetland wilderness swamp in North America. “Okefenokee” what the Creeks and Seminoles called, “Land of Trembling Earth” is approximately 700 square miles located in the southeast corner of Georgia.

There are several canoe trails that you can pick depending on your level of experience.  We went on the “Red Trail, that was 3o miles of canoeing over 4 days. 

We started at Kingfisher Landing where the trail travels through open prairies and small lakes for 12 long miles before reaching Maul Hammock. From Maul Hammock to Dinner Pond open prairies surround the trail.  After that the trail narrows, often canopied by bushes and moss covered cypress trees. 

The term “Narrows” doesn’t really give it justice.   This Eventually gave way to a wider river channel and the beginning of Big Water.   Big Water Overnight Shelter is a few more miles, which makes 11 miles from Maul Hammock to Big Water Shelter. 

It was there we spent the night on some stilted covered shelters.  There is no solid ground near by so we just pitched our tents on the wood planks.  The shelters were designed for only one purpose.  A dry area for camping since there was no solid ground for miles. 

For the next 9 miles the trail follows the channel through beautiful lakes and large cypress trees before reaching Stephen Foster.  Along the way was some of the most beautiful wetlands I have ever seen.  Wildlife and plants thrive here and this place is a photographers dream.  Here are some of my pictures from the trip. 

Click on Image to see full size

Tags: Camping, Hiking, JMOutfitters, Personal Adventure