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 DeLorme Earthmate PN40 GPS

Jasper Mountain Outfiters is offering  the DeLorme Earthmate PN40 GPS with Topo National map and a 1 GB SD card normally priced at $355.95, you can get it now for only $299.95.   With free delivery, this outdoor GPS is price to sell today. 

 Here are a few of the many features included with the Earthmate PN40 …

• NEW! Blazing-fast, high-sensitivity 32-channel STMicroelectronics Cartesio chipset
• NEW! Dual-core processor for instantaneous map and satellite imagery redraws, even with large aerial imagery files and multiple maps layers
• 360° raster rotation sets the PN-40 apart from other common GPS handhelds. With 360x rotation road, building, and other images really are on your left or right as you look at the map and walk, bike or drive
• NEW! 3-axis electronic compass with included accelerometer performs when held in any position while in motion or standing still
• NEW! Sensitive barometric altimeter for reliably accurate altitude readings
• WAAS-enabled for accuracy within 3 meters
• NEW! Now supports SDHC high-capacity SD cards (up to 32 GB) for fast and direct map transfer from the included maps discs
• Plus Many more options to list

Come see this and all out other great products at Jasper Mountain Outfitters.

Tags: Jasper Mountain Outfitters, Weekly Special

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In the article, How To Dress for Cold Weather Adventures, I addressed how to dress for cold weather activities.  In this article, I will discuses what happens when you don’t follow my advice.

Hypothermia, sometimes referred simply as “exposure”, is a lowering of the body’s core temperature caused by over-exposure to cool or cold air or water.  Most people know that extremely cold weather can cause problems and therefore most hypothermia cases are not seen during the winter months.  Most cases of hypothermia occur during the spring, summer and fall because people do not recognize that it does not take sub-zero conditions to cause hypothermia.

There are three major factors that cause hypothermia: cold, water, and wind.  In a cold environment, the body must work harder to regulate heat.  Body heat is lost in one of or the combination of three ways; convection, conduction and evaporation.  Contact with cold air, water, snow, ground or wet clothing will cause heat loss due to conduction.  Submersion in water will cause heat lost due to conduction and convection. While loss of body heat by evaporation is a major contributor as well.  Wet skin or clothing can cool the body quickly through evaporation, especially if it is windy and or cold.  Wind, in the absence of moisture will cause heat loss due to convection, and will accelerate heat loss due to evaporation.

While the basic effects of air or water induced hypothermia are similar, the speed of which hypothermia set in differs.  A person immersed in moderately cold water can have a drop of core temperature more quickly that a person exposed to cold ambient temperatures and wind.  50 degree water can drain a body’s heat quickly, often lowering the core temperature to less than 90 degrees in the first 15 min.  Shivering sets in quickly in an attempt to increase body temperature.  However, as the body continues to lose heat, the person will soon become unconscious and if the person is not wearing a proper flotation device, drowning is a common outcome. With air or wind induced hypothermia, depending on air temperature and wind speed, the symptoms may not be so apparent.  During the primary stage of hyperthermia, the victim may not acknowledge that there is a problem. Progression begins with a natural sense of cold accompanied by shivering.  A feeling of numbness then occurs while shivering increases to where it’s soon uncontrollable. Speech is garbled or incoherent, and the thought process slows. Body movements are erratic, and uncovered skin swells and appears blue. Unconsciousness follows and death can occur if the cooling is allowed to continue.  

The treatment for hypothermia is the same regardless of the cause.  It requires that the body core temperature be raised to a normal level.  Some recommended suggestions include:

• Removing wet or damp clothing
• Placed into a sleeping bag along with someone who is not suffering from the same symptoms
• Huddling near a fire or some other heat source.  Care must be taken here because, if frost bite has set in, the victim may not be able to feel the heat from the fire and a bad burn may result
• If available, place warm containers in the arm pits and groin of the victim.  Place a dry hat and socks on the victim if available.
• DO NOT GIVE ALCOHOL
• If the condition is so severe that it appears that the victim is not breathing, start CRP and maintain a proper airway.  Do not stop the CRP.  If possible, have someone else continue the warming attempts while CPR is in progress.  Most often, a person who is in severe hypothermia will respond to CRP once the body core temperature raises. 
• If the victim stops shivering but appears to still be hypothermic, he may be experiencing the onset of shock.  The treatment is the same as for hyporthermia except raising the legs above the heart is a good first step. 
• Seek medical attention as soon as possible.

  To prevent hypothermia, simply follow this advice:

• Dress properly for current and possible conditions. Have at least one wool garment for the upper and lower parts of your body. Wool is the only material with any insulating value when wet. Carry or wear a windproof, waterproof garment. Always have a wool hat and wool mittens. Have extra clothing available especially mittens and hats. A large proportion of body heat is lost through the head. Wear suitable boots, insulated if necessary; wear wool socks, and always carry extra wool socks. Avoid getting overheated and perspiring; this cools you down – fast. Wear layers and remove clothing as necessary. Better having extra than too little. Dress sensibly and expect the worst
• Sit out bad weather. Better waiting than be overtaken by a blizzard or thunderstorm. Do not push on through the night. Make camp early and rest thoroughly. You can continue tomorrow with a much greater safety margin.  Do not get exhausted. Exhaustion promotes heat loss, and thus hypothermia. Besides, if your exhausted, you are probably drenched
• Do not get in over your head. If your experience is limited to day hikes on moderate trails, do not try to go out and tackle Mt. Washington in February. Be smart. Learn to use a map and compass. Learn fire starting techniques. Learn first-aid. Be calm. Be prepared
• Be prepared for sudden weather changes especially at elevations
• Lastly, learn about hypothermia. Know the causes, warning signs, and treatment. Learn how not to get cold.

Tags: Camping, Clothing, Hiking, Hyperthermia, Jasper Mountain Outfitters, JMOutfitters, Outdoor Supply, Supplies

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This time of year, outdoor activities can be more of a challenge then a recreational event. In my area of the country (Pacific Northwest) October through January is our normal wet season. It rains pretty much all the time and when it is not raining it is cold and damp. To most people, going outdoors in this kind of environment is just plain crazy. But to those of us who enjoy the great outdoors, this time of year can offer a real chance to get away from all the crowds and tourists that usually take all the available camping spots during the summer months. However, weather like this can and usually does present some definite problems. The cold temperatures and all the rain can present dangerous conditions for the adventurist that is not prepared. Staying dry and warm is the key to having a fun and relaxing cold weather outdoor experience.

Below are some tips to keep in mind when venturing out during the cooler months.

Your activity level will determine what kind of clothing you should wear while venturing into the cold weather. The key is to wear multiple layers of clothes so that you can remove or add clothing as the environment and your activity level changes. Your clothing should be designed to keep your body heat at a stable level and equal out heat loss and heat gain. You should be able to be comfortable whether you’re are moving around or sitting still.

In cold, wet weather, cotton is not your friend. Cotton holds moisture, whether it be from the wet environment or from sweating. As we all know, persistent moisture can not only cause things like blisters and skin irritation, but can cause loss of body heat as well. Wet clothing is the number one cause of hypothermia in cold weather activities. Every effort must be taken to keep your clothing dry while in cold weather conditions.

Like I said before, layering is the key to determining what kind of clothing you should wear. Basically, you should have 3 layers of clothes with each providing a different purpose.

The first layer should employ clothing that will remove moisture away from your skin. This will prevent heat loss due to moisture build up. Clothing comprising polypropylene or some other kind of synthetic is best suited for this purpose.

The second layer is the insulation layer. This should be clothing that will keep the heat in and the cold out. This is best material suited for this is fleece. It is light and warm, but does not shed water readily so the last layer of clothing is very important.

The third layer is for keeping the water and wind out. It should comprise of water proof materials such as Gore-Tex. This material is light weight, very wind and water resistant and warm. And for all you who are designer conscious, it comes in many different styles and colors as well.

Staying dry and warm can mean the difference in having a great time while hiking or camping and being found by a rescue party 2 weeks after setting out. If you follow the advice above, not only will you have a great time in your outdoor activity, but you will look like you are having a great time as well.

Tags: Camping, Clothing, Gore-Tex, Hiking, JMOutfitters, Outdoor Supply, Supplies

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Camping can be a great adventure. Getting away from the hustle-bussle of the city and into the woods can be not only fun but very relaxing. While there, we give up most of the modern comforts of home; electircty, running water and most importantly, TV. But of all the things we give up, one thing is for sure. We can’t do without light.

Campers have learned to time most of their activities to daylight hours. However, once the sun goes down and the light goes away, we can’t just stop living. We still need to be able to cook and clean and then there are the recreation activities one must do at night. For these activities, we need a good source of light. And that is where lanterns come into play.

A camping lantern is absolutely necessary on any camping trip especially extended trips. It can provide you with all the light necessary to do the things you need to do when the sun is not shinning. However, for the purposes of safety and enjoyment, it is important to note that not all types of camping lanterns are suitable for the kind of camping that you do. Listed below are some of the features of the different types of Camping Lanterns available today. This section also covers some tips on what to look for when buying a Camping Lantern.

There are three lanterns types; candle, fuel, and battery-powered. Fuel sourced lanterns make use of different fuel sources such as kerosene, butane, and propane and they offer the brightest source light. However, these lanterns can be bit noisy and should not be used inside a tent since the can, depending on the fuel source, give off toxic gases.

Candle lanters can provide light for approximately eight hours but are extremely dangerous when used inside a closed inviroment such as a tent due to the potential for accidntal fires.

The most popular choice now days is the battery-operated Camping Lanterns. They are durable and safe to use even inside a tent. They do not give off toxic gases, are not a threat for fire and are slient. The draw back is that they often do not produce enough area lighting and can be insufficient if you are camping under cold conditions due to the loss of battery efficency in cold tempertures. LED lighs have overcome the issue of lack of brightness and they have also extended the lenght of battery life even in cold weather.

Tips in choosing a latern
Reguardless of which type of latern you choose, pick one with an adjustable flame or light so you can have the intensity or brightness that is just right for you while, at the same time, save your battery when bright life is not needed.

Always remember to bring extra fuel for your gas lantern, or spare candles if you have a candle lantern. Likewise, make sure to bring extra batteries for your battery-powered camping lantern. And you may want to consider buying rechargeable batteries.

Camping lanterns come in different sizes and with additional items. For instance, you may need a refillable canister if you are using a gas lantern or spare batteries for your battery-operated lamp. Make sure to consider the extra weight of these items as well as the space they will occupy. So, when buying your lantern, make sure to take a look at the features of several different types of camping lanterns which best suits your needs.

These lanters as well as other popular brands are all located at Jasper Mountain Outfitters.

Tags: Camping, JMOutfitters, Lanterns, Outdoor Supply

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With so many choices and options available, buying a tent can be a complex decision for any camper to make but it’s impariative to pick the right one. If you buy a tent with all of the features available, the tent may be comfortable but could also be large and heavy-which is not necessarily the best choice for backpackers. If you buy a lighter tent, there may be less features and purhaps not a lot of protection from natures natural elements; when a tent is used under the wrong conditions it could take the fun out of any camping trip. The key is to find the right balance for your specific needs and you will have a tent that you can enjoy for years to come.

Parts of a Tent:

Body
The body is the main bulk of the tent once it is deployed. Tent poles provide a frame which holds up the walls and forms the body.

Rain fly
A rain fly is a waterproof covering that goes on the outside of the tent. A good rain fly extends to the bottom of the tent in order to protect the entire tent from rain and water damage. Some even extend out from the tent to channel the water away from the tent body. A good rain fly can mean the difference between a wet and a dry experience.

Vestibule
A vestibule on a tent is very similar to a covered porch. This space acts as a buffer between the tent entrance and the snow and mud, allowing a person to remove soiled clothing without bringing the mess inside the tent. Vestibules also provide extra storage space and protection from the elements.

Footprint
A footprint is an extra piece of material that fits below the tent and protects its bottom from wear and tear. Many manufacturers make footprints that are fitted to a particular tent, but it is easy to make your own with plastic sheeting (usually available by the roll). Another option is to use a standard tarp; it will not look as professional as the first two options, but it will work just as well in dry conditions. Replacing a worn out footprint is much more cost-effective than replacing the entire tent.

Note – In wet conditions, using a tarp or any footprint that extends out from the tent will enable the rain coming off of the roof to form puddles on the footprint’s surface. Depending on the slope of the ground, these puddles can travel under the tent, allowing water to get inside.

Stakes
Tent stakes are placed in various loops or holes around the tent and pounded into the ground. This allows for the tent to remain taut and anchored to the ground.

Guy lines
Guy lines are tension cords that attach to the ground and keep the tent anchored in high winds. Some tent constructions require guy lines to keep the tent’s shape.

Vents
Ventilation is a camping necessity. Most tents have mesh openings that allow the air to flow in and out of the tent while protecting against bugs and dust kicked up by the wind. This circulates the air and prevents condensation buildup inside the tent. Most mesh vents can be closed to help keep out wind and keep in heat.

Doors
Tents can have either a zippered door, or just a flap. While a flap is a functional door, it does not provide as many benefits as a zippered door. A zippered door will keep out rain, snow, wind, and insects as well as control the flow of air. When buying a tent, consider the number of doors you will need. If you need to save space and weight, then one door might be all you need. If you plan on having a large number of people staying in the tent, then two or three doors might be a better option.

Poles
There are two basic types of tent poles: rigid and collapsible. Rigid poles are typically stiff, tubular poles that slot one-into-another to form a frame over which the tent wall hangs. Collapsible tent poles are typically lightweight, flexible, and strong. Tent poles come in a number of different materials including: fiberglass, aluminum, aluminum alloys, and carbon fiber. Collapsible poles are generally tube shaped and can break down into small, 1-2 foot, sections. An elastic shock cord runs down the middle of the tubes in order to connect all of the pieces.

Collapsible Tent Pole Materials:

Fiberglass
Solid fiberglass poles can be prone to breakage and deterioration and they are frequently found in cheaper tents. Fiberglass loses its flexibility in cold weather and can break with little applied pressure. The benefit of using fiberglass is that it is incredibly light-though they should not be used for anything more than casual camping.

Fiberglass tubes
Fiberglass tubes are collapsible fiberglass poles that are often reinforced with aluminum ends. They are held together with an elastic cord that helps to improve flexibility in colder weather. More reliable than solid fiberglass poles, fiberglass tubes are a popular, cost-effective style of tent pole.

Aluminum
Tent poles made of aluminum are stronger, more durable, and generally more reliable than fiberglass poles. Aluminum poles are just as light as fiberglass but they don’t lose their flexibility in cold. Aluminum poles are more expensive than fiberglass, but they are a sound investment for anyone that plans to do extensive camping.

Aluminum alloy
Different metals can be added to aluminum in order to produce a stronger and lighter pole. Aluminum alloy poles are even more costly than standard aluminum poles but they are worth the cost if added strength, durability and light weight is desired.

Carbon Fiber
Carbon fiber poles are very strong and very durable, and they are often half the weight of aluminum poles. Carbon fiber poles are the best option for the serious camper, though they can sometimes be the most expensive.

Tent Types: Single Wall Tents vs. Double Wall Tents

Double Wall Tents
A double wall tent is essentially a tent within a tent. There are two layers called the tent body and the tent fly. The tent body is usually made of nylon and mesh and is supported by poles that attach to the body using external sleeves or clips. The tent fly (or rain fly) is then attached to the poles and staked to the ground. Double wall tents provide excellent ventilation because the tent body contains a lot of mesh.

Compare to single wall tents:

Pros:

1. Warmer
2. Cheaper
3. More durable

Cons:

1. Harder to set up
2. Heavier
3. Bulkier

Single Wall Tents
A single wall tent consists of just a single layer of material between you and the elements. The material needs to be impermeable enough to keep rain from coming in while remaining breathable enough to let moisture out. Single wall tents are typically very light.

Compare to double wall tents:

 Pros

1. Lighter
2. Less Bulky
3. Easier to set up

Cons

1. More expensive (sometimes twice the price of their double wall counterparts)
2. Colder
3. Less Durable

Seasonal Tents

Summer Tents
Summer tents often include a lot of mesh in the construction of the body. The rain fly on a summer tent is not as long as those on multi-season tents; this allows the tent to have more ventilation during the hot summer months. Summer tents usually use a two-pole construction in order to save weight.

Three Season Tents
Three season tents are designed to be very versatile. These tents usually include a full rain fly that can be removed in order to improve ventilation. Three-season tents typically use a three-pole construction because it provides extra durability during heavy winds. These tents are very popular due to their versatility; however, they are not designed for cold winter weather.

Four Season or All Season Tents
Four season tents are basically three season tents that are better equipped for winter use. They are usually constructed with four poles for excellent durability under heavy winds and snows. Four season tents are the most versatile tents available, but they are also costlier than three season tents-a fact which has limited their popularity.

Tent Shapes

Rigid Frame Tents
A rigid frame tent utilizes a sturdy frame made up of stiff, tubular poles that slot one-into-another to form a frame over which the tent material can hang. Guy lines typically hold the tent in place and keep it from blowing down rather than holding the tent up. Frame tents are usually large and roomy, perfect for lots of gear or people. This type of tent is used more for casual, family camping because they are heavier and bulkier than other types of tents.

 A-Frame Tents
A-frame tents use two triangular shaped frame sections that are connected by a pole that runs down the center, or ridge, of the tent. This forms an elongated, triangle shaped tent that is fairly simple in construction. A-frame tents are becoming increasingly rare among hikers and campers due to the fact that dome tents are roomier than a-frame tents with comparable floor sizes.

Dome Tents
Dome tents are popular for hikers and campers alike. Like most tents, dome tents consist of a tent pole frame and a lightweight tent body. These tent poles are evenly spaced and curved in order to form the dome shape. Dome tents usually use between two and four poles as the frame. Because they are overlapping and evenly spaced, the tent poles change the geometry of the floor depending on the amount of poles used (two poles would create a square floor, three poles would make the floor hexagonal, and four poles would mean an octagonal floor). Using three or four poles increases the amount of usable space inside the tent, but it also makes the setup a little more complicated. Dome tents are lightweight and sturdy, and they provide a large amount of internal space while retaining structural integrity under inclement weather.

Hoop Tents
Tunnel, or hoop tents, use two to three hoops arranged in sequence as the frame. This creates a tunnel on which the tent body can hang. Hoop tents are popular among hikers due to their simple construction, large proportion of useable space inside and durability under high winds. The hoop construction allows the weight to be distributed among all of the hoops evenly, thus creating a very strong and stable structure.

While these are the basic styles of tents available today, it is by no means a complete list. There are many variations and combinations of these styles available as well. It is important to select the tent that will be most beneficial to you.

Capacity and Size
It is always a good idea to buy a tent with a capacity greater than your anticipated need. If there will be two people using a tent, it is a good idea to buy a tent built for three or four people. This is important because even though you can generally fit two people in a two person tent, the size of the people and sleeping bags need to be considered. Other things might affect your decision when it comes to capacity and size including: the amount of gear you plan on having inside the tent, the amount of roll or tossing and turning space desired, the amount of vertical space required, and whether or not there will be pets inside the tent. It is always better to have too much space rather than not enough.

Color
The choice of tent color might seem insignificant, but it can be an important choice. More than just a cosmetic decision, tent color can dictate the temperature of the tent. A tent that is brightly colored will reflect more sunlight and create a cooler environment inside. A tent that is darker colored will absorb more sunlight during the day and keep the tent warmer. Also, bright colors will enable rescue workers to easily spot a tent in dense forests or snow should the need arise.

Quick List of Things to Look For

• A full rain fly—the best camping trips can be spoiled by rain
• Durable material—you want a tent that can stand up to the rigors of camping
• Waterproofness—it is a good idea to water test your tent before a trip. Locate any leaks and seal them before they become a problem.
• Pockets, hooks, and gear space—places to store gear and hang lights can make a substantial difference in the level of comfort.
• During the summer, you will want lots of ventilation—extra mesh, windows, and doors will enable the tent to breathe during the hot summer season
• During rainy or snowy weather, select a tent that is built to withstand high winds and heavy rains—bad weather and snow accumulation can collapse a tent.
• A vestibule, especially if camping in rainy or snowy weather—vestibules provide an enclosed space to change clothes and store gear separate from the tent.

Jasper Mountain Outfitters has a wide selection of tents and shelters as well as all your other camping needs.  Come check us out.

Tags: Camping, Dome, JMOutfitters, Outdoor Supply, Shelters, Supplies, Tents

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Camping stoves are split into two main categories – car camping and those used in backpacking excursions. When it comes to regular car camping in campgrounds, a heavier duty stove is ok since you won’t have to carry in on a trail while backpacking. Two-burner propane camping stoves are the preferred choice over the older white gas camp stoves. The pressurized butane and propane camping stoves are rated the easiest to use which is what we are looking for in convenience. For the hardier backpackers among us, a lightweight, single burner stove is what ranks as the #1 priority. Backpackers need stoves that work in cold weather, windy areas, and at high altitudes. Stove manufacturers measure their performance in terms of “boiling time”. The boil time is usually done on 1 quart of water using the “recommended” fuel for that stove. They range from 2 1/2 minutes to 10 minutes (at sea level). Look for a mid-range stove with 3 to 5 minute boil times. The higher up in altitude you go, the longer it takes to boil water so if you plan on backpacking high up in the mountains, look for a stove that is rated favorable for those conditions.

For more stove choices please visit our store at Jasper Mountain Outfitters

Tags: Camping, JMOutfitters, Outdoor Supply, Stoves, Supplies

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Binoculars

 Binoculars (also known as Field glasses) are optical devices that contain dual mirror-symmetrical telescopes mounted together in order for the user to use both eyes when viewing distant objects. Binocular lenses are aligned to point accurately in the same direction, many binoculars are designed to be held by two hands but there are much larger models as well. Binoculars give the user a three dimensional view; the two views contain a slightly different viewpoint to each of the viewer’s eye, thus producing a merged view with depth perception. there are two types of binoculars that are used today; Roof Binoculars and Porro Binoculars. you will find many different sizes and styles of binoculars. The most important thing to look for in a set of binoculars is that; it should feel good in your hands and be able to get a clear/crisp image.

Types of Binoculars 

Roof Binoculars
Roof binoculars contain what is known as a roof prism, these binocular models are generally smaller in size than porro style binoculars and are typified by straight barrels. Roof prism models are lighter weight than porro prism binoculars yet maintain excellent image quality. Roof prisms usually have a more sleek design than parro prisms but have a reduced brightness compared to the parro. These binoculars must go through a more strict alignment of the optical elements which requires the elements to be a fixed style. This means that they normally do not need to be re-aligned.

Porro Binoculars
Porro binoculars contain what is known as a parro prism, these models are a more traditional style binocular. Porro prism binoculars are easily identified by the shape of the barrels, which have the objective lens offset from the ocular lens. Parro prisms produce a brighter image versus the roof prism, but the prisms may need to be re-aligned occasionally.

Binocular Sizes

Compact
Compact binoculars offer the advantages of being smaller and lighter. They are perfect for those who are generally on foot for long periods of time and need to trim weight from their load. They usually fit into pockets for easy accessibility and quick use. However, they offer limited light transmission and steadiness in the larger powers. Usually, objective lenses in these compacts are in the 20-30 mm range.

Mid Size
A Mid size binocular offers a good mix of light transmission and steadiness, but is also easy to handle and fairly lightweight is a mid size. These binoculars are great for all around use in most conditions. Objective sizes in mid size binoculars typically range from 30-40 mm. These days, many features of full size binoculars can be found in mid size binoculars, a plus when weight is critical.

Full Size
Full size binoculars are the best for gathering light because of their larger objective lenses, which are usually over 40 mm. They also offer broader fields of view and are easier to steady. The trade off is often in the size and weight. Larger and heavier, they are ideal for those who don’t mind carrying a few extra ounces to get a better view.

Power and Viewing

Power and Objective Size, Zoom Options
Optics are described by two numbers separated by an “X.” The first number is the magnification (8X) or how many times larger an object will appear when viewed through the optic. An 8X, or 8 power optic will make an object appear eight times closer than the same object viewed with the naked eye. The last number is the diameter of the objective lens in millimeters (X40). The objective lens is the lens nearest the object being viewed. When choosing a binocular, magnification is critical. Lower magnification binoculars, 8X or less, allow for excellent light gathering, wider field of view and extremely steady images. Higher magnification binoculars, 10X or higher, bring objects much closer, but sacrifice some of the other features found in low magnification pairs.

Field of View (FOV)
When viewing through a binocular the visible width at a given distance is known as the “field of view.” Field of view may be expressed in feet at 1,000 yards, meters at 1,000 meters, or degree of angle. One degree of angle equals 52.5 feet field-of view at 1,000 yards. An optic with 6.5 degrees of angle can be calculated by multiplying 52.5 feet (6.5 x 52.5 = 340 feet at 1,000 yards). TIP: Higher magnification means closer images but less light transmission and smaller field of view.

Inside the Optic

Lens Construction
Another more recent innovation in binocular lenses is the attention to ocular lens configuration. The arrangement and surface shape can effect clarity and definition, especially at the edges of the image. Brunton Epoch™ binoculars use “hybrid aspheric lens construction,” a complex organization of lens surfaces that result in optimal image clarity over the entire image field and eliminate distortion found in standard aspheric lenses.

Coatings
To enhance light transmission through a binocular, manufacturers apply a microscopic film containing magnesium fluoride and other chemicals to the prism, lenses or both. This microscopic film diminishes the reflected or stray light inside a binocular allowing more light to be transmitted to the user’s eye. Generally, the more applications of this coating, the greater the reduction in glare and reflections resulting in a brighter crisper image. The least expensive process is known as a “coated” optic where only the prism is coated. When an optic is “fully coated,” all air-to-glass surfaces (lens and prisms) are coated once. The best coating available is “fully multi coated” where all air-to-glass surfaces are coated multiple times for the greatest amount of light transmission to the eye. TIP: More coatings mean brighter, crisper images in all light conditions. Exit Pupil & Eye Relief.

Exit pupil
The amount of light exiting the binocular and entering the eye is determined by the “exit pupil.” The exit pupil is calculated by dividing the diameter of the objective lens by the magnification. An 8×40 mm binocular has an exit pupil of 5 mm (40 mm ÷ 8 mm = 5 mm). If we were glassing for elk during the day, the pupil of a human eye would only open 2.5 mm, but increase to 5 mm at dusk to compensate for less available light. Binoculars with an exit pupil of 5 mm or higher maximize the amount of light entering the eye, thus increasing image brightness. An 8X24 mm binocular (3 mm exit pupil) will perform well under normal lighting conditions where a 7X42 mm binocular (6 mm exit pupil) provides enough light to see during twilight conditions and into the shadows of the forest canopy.

Eye Relief
In order for your binocular to produce a full image, the proper distance must be maintained from your eye to the ocular lens. This distance is known as “eye relief.” If you wear eyeglasses (or sunglasses), the distance is increased because your eyes are 10-15 mm behind a glass barrier. If this additional distance is not accounted for “tunnel vision” will occur. To allow eyeglass wearers to have a full image, a binocular must incorporate “long eye relief” which is a distance of 15 mm or more. Binoculars with long eye relief feature adjustable eyecups which move the binocular to the correct distance from the eye for eyeglass compatibility. Recent innovations such as “multi-step long eye relief” allow the user to twist-up the eyecups to the desired distance from the eye. Brunton Epoch™ Binoculars feature a patented “locking multi-step eye relief system” which allows users to lock the eye cups in their specific position to ensure quicker spotting with less set-up of the binocular. TIP: Eyeglass wearers should seek a binocular with a minimum eye relief of 18 mm.

Focus Mechanisms

Focus settings
Focus mechanisms are critical to the performance and enjoyment of your binocular. A good focus wheel set-up will give you a range of closefocus to infinity in just one full turn (360 degrees) of the focus wheel. Most binoculars have a linear focusing gear, which typically gives the user either a slow focus or fast focus. Slow focus is good for examining things at close range (less than 30 feet). Fast focus is better for long range viewing (30 ft to infinity). Brunton’s Variable Speed Focus™ allows the user a combination of fast and slow focus. Brunton has also set the bar for close focus. Typically, binoculars can not focus on objects closer than 5 ft away. The Epoch™ binoculars are able to focus at a mere 3 feet away, with precise focus adjustment, then transition out to infinity with a fast focusing gear. This innovative system has forever changed binocular performance standards.

Tags: Binoculars, Camping, Focus, Hiking, JMOutfitters, Optic, Outdoor Supply, Supplies

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Hydration Systems
Hydration systems are devices designed with the single purpose of getting necessary liquids to the user as quick and as convenient as possible. Initially, hydration systems were designed for bikers because of limited hand availability. These devices have been popularized in many other outdoor activities and are a necessity for many military operations. Having a hydration system is much more effective and convenient than carrying around water bottles. Having a hydration system on or in your pack keeps you more hydrated because by the time you go for a drink from a water bottle you are already showing signs of dehydration. Also, when empty, hydration systems take up little space and are very lightweight.

How Hydration Systems Work
Hydration systems consist of 3 main parts; the packaging, a polyurethane reservoir also known as the “bladder”, and the hose. The Bladder is usually an elongated, flexible, and removable water container that goes inside whatever pack fits your needs. These reservoirs range in size from 64 ounces (2 quarts) to 128 ounces (1 gallon). The hose is attached to the bladder and has some sort of bite valve at the end that allows the water to flow out by biting down on it. With the end of the tube just inches from your mouth the need for a water break becomes non-existent.

Choosing your Hydration System
Choosing the right hydration system is important. There are many different designs, styles, and sizes. You must also keep in mind the factors that contribute to its ease of use because nowadays hydration packs can be sport/activity specific. Such factors include how easy it is to clean or refill, and how you intend to carry and store It.

Cleaning
Cleanliness is one of the most important factors when it comes to any sort of reusable water device. When water sits idle for an extended period of time or the container is not cleaned properly after use it is more susceptible to bacteria which can increase the chances that the user gets sick. Most bladders are removable which makes them easier to clean and also allows for them to be used in almost any backpack. The size of the access hole for filling the container also affects how easy it is to clean the bladder. An opening roughly large enough for the users hand to fit inside is ideal for cleaning. Some manufacturers offer bladders that are dishwasher-safe and or easily replaceable after use. Many prefer a bladder that is transparent making it easier to check the cleanliness of the bladder. Some companies also make cleaning tablets that clean out water reservoirs and water bottles.

Be Practical, Size does Matter
Understanding what activities you will be using the hydration system for is very important. For instance, a bicyclist may prefer a smaller lightweight hydration pack for less wind resistance. For long distance trips with no other water source you might consider a larger bladder. The mountain biker’s pack will be slightly different from the road biker’s hydration pack, as well as those used for winter sports and running.

— Small
Small sized packs are very important if weight is an issue. For running and biking a larger pack could be a nuisance. When all you need is water, it is a good idea to keep the pack small and to the point. Smaller bladders can be a good idea especially if you have a water filter and local water supply.

— Medium
Medium sized hydration systems are very useful for short day hikes and other activities that can be achieved in short periods of time. Another good aspect of medium sized packs is they can store other necessities such as food/snacks and emergency equipment.

— Large
The larger Packs are typically designed for backpacking or trekking for multiple days. These packs are hydration system compatible but some do not come with the bladder and hose.

Water Filter Attachments
Some hydration systems have quick attachments for water filtration devices. These attachments make refilling anywhere an easy task. In some cases if you intend to carry your reservoir on the inside of the pack it can be very difficult to take off the pack, dig into the pouch, retrieve the reservoir, and fill it with water. Not only do you have to hold the bladder in a position that it will not collapse and spill but you need two hands typically to pump the water. With a special attachment that extends outside of the pack to the filter the task of refilling the hydration system mid-hike has become extremely simplified. This device is also a great idea because it allows for the hydration pack to remain inside of the pack where insulation is much better.

Insulation
Another feature that many hydration systems manufacturers stress is insulation. Many hydration packs are insulated and typically the bigger the pack the more insulated the hydration system can be. Some manufacturers have a special insulation liner that goes directly around the bladder so that it can be attached to the outside of a backpack for easy access and refilling. Hoses can also be insulated too and some hydration systems come with insulated hoses or they can be purchased separately. This is important because after each drink, water will remain in the hose. Since the hose is a much smaller area and is more exposed to the outside it will change towards the ambient temperature at a much faster rate. In other words, in extremely cold weather the insulation will protect the water from freezing and help keep the water from getting warm in the hot sun. Ice can typically also be put inside the bladder in order to keep the water colder for a longer period of time.

Tags: Camping, Hiking, Hydration, JMOutfitters, Outdoor Supply, Supplies

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There are many different types of tents used by campers all over the world.  They come in different sizes and shapes depending on its basic function.   Some are as simple as a rectangular sheet of cloth or canvas held up by 2 poles.  Then there are some that include several rooms and living quarters.  Most of us want to use a tent that falls somewhere in the middle of that spectrum.  Below is a description of some of the most common types of camping tents available. 

Pyramid or Teepee Tents

A pyramid or teepee tent has a very basic design. The teepee tent is favored by backpackers because of its light weight and simple setup.  It is very easy to setup as it is made with a single layer of waterproof fabric. It doesn’t have a complicated pole system and is usually held up with a single pole in the center, with the sides staked out securely. The center pole even doubles as a hiking stick in some models.

The teepee tent is usually floorless and can sometimes be used it as a potty or shower tent. The teepee tent has a high entrance and sloping sides, which offers good head room in the center and an excellent place to store gear as the headroom disappears with the inclined sides. This type of tent isn’t very secure against mosquitoes and other insects, though. It also doesn’t stand up well in anything less than the best of weather conditions. The teepee tent can accommodate one to three people.

A-Frame Tents or Pup Tent

Just like its name, this tent is shaped like the letter “A”. The design was actually the classic tent design with each end forming a “A”, with a single ridgepole across the top to hold up the tent’s canopy.  The sloping sides do restrict the interior headroom, but A-frame tents have an efficient rectangular floor space. The angled sides sag in wet or windy weather, so other, more weather-worthy designs have mostly replaced the use of A-frame tents.

Another popular style for lightweight tents is the Modified A-Frame tent. The difference is that this tent has a curved center pole along the ridgeline that makes it a little like the hoop tent. This provides more headroom and extra stability while maintaining the rectangular floor space.  The modified A-Frame tent will usually accommodate one to three people.

Dome Tents

The Dome Tent is shaped like an upside down bowl and is the most popular, all around camping tent for all types of camping. It is a good choice for a summer or three-season tent.   Most dome tents are moderately priced and well built. They can be found in a wide variety of styles, shapes, and sizes. The shape may vary greatly. Some include: hexagonal, square, rectangular, irregular quadrangle, or even hexagon. They all use a geometrical design with the poles to hold the tent up.  Dome tents are easy to setup and take down. Some models actually have poles built in for extremely easy setup. They use space more efficiently as they fold up compactly for packing. They do weigh a bit more than most other tent styles so packing in with one of these tents is not always particle.  However, they are good at keeping you dry during rainy weather and are good at shedding both rain and snow.  

Modified Dome Tents have a square floor area and extra cross poles for support. Some modified dome tents may have one end tapered lower for less wind resistance. Nearly every four-season tent is a modified-dome tent. The most wind-worthy camping tent style of all modified dome tents is the geodesic dome tent. It has multiple pole intersections that will stand up well to high winds or snow.

Tunnel or Hoop Tents

The tunnel tent has a structure of simple side to side arched poles like a covered wagon. It forms a tunnel with a series of hoop shaped poles (usually two or three). Sometimes an extra center pole is used to keep the walls from sagging. It is one of the lightest and easiest to pitch shapes available. Because it is a light and compact tent option, this camping tent style is extremely popular for solo backpackers, hikers, and bike campers. It is easy to setup and is relatively lightweight with a good amount of floor space. It has good headroom and steep side walls. It has more headroom than an A-frame tent. A tunnel tent works best as a summer or three season camping tent style, and is fine as long as the wind doesn’t blow hard. It tends to rock and roll in crosswinds and won’t stand up to high winds or snow. Some hoop tents, though, may be more equipped for harsh conditions. They may have more poles and lines to help hold up against the wind. Other options are available, too, such as a rain fly, a vestibule, and mesh windows. Tunnel tents can accommodate one to four people, depending on the size.

This is just a basic comparison of the type of camping tents on the market today. I hope it at leaset gets you points in the right direction once you have decided to purchase your tent.  You can find more information and our current selection of camping tents at Jasper Mountain Outfitters.  For a 10% discount on anything in stock, just enter code GTROUTDORS at check out.

Tags: Camping, Dome Tent, JMOutfitters, Outdoor Supply, Supplies, Tents

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A friend and I were discussing going camping at Mt. St. Helens a couple weeks ago.  When we started planning the trip, it became very apparent that his idea of a camping was totally different than mine.  So, I though this had that makings of a great article. 

When I plan a camping trip it generally involves finding a nice camping site in a not to busy public camp ground, like a state or national park.  I like to be able to pull my truck up close to the camping site to unload.  I like the idea of having supplies nearby just in case I forgot something important.  I also like have semi-modern way stations that I can use when nature calls.  Someplace to wash my hands and face in the morning is one of life’s basic necessities. I also like the idea of having a nice dry getaway during those times when rain tries to ruin my camping trip.

Now mind you, I still like sleeping on the ground in a nice dry tent.  There is nothing better than being rapped up in a nice warm sleeping bag on a clear cold night and looking out the window of the tent and seeing the stars.  But I still have to have my air mattress, bug spray, radio and bottle opener near by.  Because my idea of roughing it is still having my normal food (Steak) and drinks (Beer) close by.  Roughing it never meant that you have to starve to death.

Now my friends idea of camping involves parking the truck on the side of the road, throwing a 100 pound pack on your back and walking to you find a relatively flat, clear are to pitch the tent.  It involves carrying in everything you need.  This includes all you food and water.  Now, last time I looked, there was no practical way of carrying ice in a backpack.  That of coarse mean no fresh meat, no cold water and, god forbid, no beer.  That leaves no room for the other basic essentials like a radio and air mattress.  And since you carry in your water, there is never enough to wash your hands and face.  That is pure torture. 

I am sure there are plenty of people out there that feel as my friend does and I don’t mean to imply that this form of camping is bad.  It’s just not for me.  I like going camping to get out of the city, relax and enjoy a nice meal or two. 

So, to all you “Real” campers, more power to you.  Keep roughing it and leave all the good camping spots to me.